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When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.